Getting Started in Beekeeping
Have you always been interested in beekeeping but don't know where to start? Here you'll find all the key steps and equipment you need to get off to a good start!
Your beekeeping journey
Bees
A nucleus, the foundation for entering the profession.
La ruche (FR)
What should I think about to get started?
Equipment for the apiary
What are the essential tools for inspecting beehives?
Feeding the colony
We'll show you what to do and when!
Screening for and treating against varroa mites
That's the secret to success...
Harvesting your honey
From removing the honey supers to bottling.
Prepare the colony for winter
Insulation... the whys and wherefores!
Reserve your place now for our next training session
Choosing your bees
Reserving your bees should be the first step on your journey into beekeeping. Ideally, this should take place between January and the end of March to ensure a colony is available for you.
You'll hear about nuclei, nucs, and so on… What do all these words mean? The word "nucleus" refers to a single colony in its "baby" stage, "nuclei" is simply its plural, and "nucs" is the abbreviation in beekeeping jargon. Essentially, it's four frames filled with bees (around 10,000), with a young, marked queen (to make her easier to spot if needed), which you can transfer to the middle of your new hive.
Nuclei are usually available towards the end of May, the time of collection varying depending on whether the climatic conditions have favoured the development of small colonies in our apiaries.
Yes, these bees come from Quebec and are raised by our small team of passionate beekeepers.
Warning! When starting out in a brand new hive, with frames on foundations (unbuilt), it's best to begin with the nucleus formula, rather than the package of bees which may be offered to you earlier in the season. The bee package is a small box containing 1.5 kg of loose bees, meaning without frames, from Italy. It's a good option, but recommended only when a colony has already established itself in the hive, as the resources required to build new frames are too great. Did you know that bees need to consume 10 kg of honey to produce 1 kg of wax?
The beehives
Bees and habitats go hand in hand, so let's talk about beehives. There are all sorts of models, and it can be easy to get lost in them at first.
Our recommendation is to purchase Canadian standard size, in Langstroth dimensions, in order to maximize the compatibility and to promote’easy access to the components of the hive when it needs to be done quickly.
Our kits include 2 supers (for the complete list, please click on the product page), but you may need additional space for your first season. Consider purchasing an extra super for the honey, either medium size (2/3) Or standard (9 5/8).
You will need to decide 3 things:
What type of tray do I prefer to have?
The hive floor is at the base of the hive. It serves to protect the colony from predators, and becomes the entrance and exit used most of the time by the foraging bees.
There are 2 types of trays; the reversible tray and the wire mesh tray with a drawer. By clicking on each of the links, you can learn more about using the two trays and decide which one suits you best. The wire mesh tray with a drawer is often recommended for starting out in beekeeping because it allows for better management of varroa mite monitoring, but both have their advantages and disadvantages.
In a world where anything is possible, the reversible hive tray is preferred in winter, and the wire mesh tray with a drawer is best used from May to October. It's up to you to decide, based on your budget, whether this is realistic or not. Bees adapt to either type, but this method will be ideal.
What type of frames do I want?
You might ask us, "What is better?" The unequivocal answer has remained, since the dawn of time, the wooden frames with a natural wax foundation.
Since beeswax is a noble and natural material for bees, the speed at which the honeycomb cells are drawn out (construction of the foundations) will be 3 times faster than if other materials are used. frames with waxed plastic sheets.
These methods remain an economic compromise that the beekeeper can freely make without compromising the health of the colony, but natural wax still offers numerous significant advantages regarding colony hygiene. There's no waste when it's time to rotate the frames in the brood chamber. The wax can be cleaned and used to make candles.
How about sustainable beekeeping?
Should I opt for the natural pine set, already painted or protected with paraffin?
The parts of the beehive exposed to the elements need protection. If you decide to go with the natural pine option, it will be your responsibility to paint it (with a VOC-free paint) or to dye (flaxseed oilThe exterior walls of your equipment. The pre-painted option we offer is all white; you can therefore exercise your creativity with other colors if you wish. Bees love diverse colors, so get out your paintbrushes!
Whether treated with paint or stain, you'll need to apply one or two coats after a few years, depending on the condition of your hive. Interested in a paraffin-coated beehive? Why not! For just a few dollars more, your hive is protected for life, remains pathogen-free, and retains a natural wooden appearance.
Apiary equipment
Italian Inox Dome Bee Smoker 7"
$68.00
Deluxe Yellow Hive Tool (25cm)
$17.50
Bee Brush Yellow Nylon
$12.00There's something for everyone, but here are our essentials for going to the apiary.
Don't forget to protect yourself properly, especially if you lack confidence at first; being dressed appropriately can make all the difference to your experience. Plan a jacket, or even better, a combination (both protect the face), and one pair of gloves.
Why feed the bees?
Did you know that the honeybee, *Apis mellifera*, the one that produces honey in abundance, isn't native to this region? It was brought to Virginia by the first European settlers in 1622. This demonstrates that bees have adapted, and continue to adapt, to survive in our extreme environments. Think of our winters, when bees can't leave the hive to defecate for sometimes more than three months. Everything they eat remains inside their intestines until they can expel it.
Given that our late-summer blooms are rich in protein (aster, goldenrod, buckwheat), current beekeeping research agrees that too much protein in a confined environment, such as during winter, can cause dysentery in bees. Therefore, we remove the honey from the top of the queen excluder at the beginning of September and feed the colonies sugar syrup to maximize their chances of overwintering successfully.
The sugar used is simply white granulated sugarcane (it's the lightest), which is dissolved in hot water. For autumn feeding, the ratio is 2 kg of sugar to 1 liter of water. Be careful not to boil the mixture, otherwise it becomes toxic to the bees. When the water is very hot, reduce the heat and stir in the sugar until all the crystals have dissolved. Let it cool before adding it to the feeder. And take this opportunity to add... our supplements which give a real boost to the health of the colonies. Would you rather buy your syrup already made? It's already prepared for you, in 20-liter container, 200 liters Or 1000 liters. Simply follow the link.
Feeding the bees
The most important thing when beekeeping is to learn about the environment in which the bees live and to help them adapt to it. You'll hear countless pieces of advice, but if you don't apply your intelligence to the benefit of your colony, you'll repeat mistakes that could have been avoided. rigorous observations during your inspections.
FEBRUARY
The weather is gradually warming up… you can put on your snowshoes and go see if your bees have survived until today! Please note, this isn't a full inspection. It's a quick check to see, by gently lifting the hive from behind, if they have enough food until the weather is warm enough for them to forage for the first nectar and pollen. If the hive lifts easily with one hand, it might be a sign that they've consumed a lot. In that case, insert a packet of fondant, commonly called "« Apifonda«"Essentially a firm sugar paste, which will allow the bees quick access to carbohydrates while they wait for spring. Yes, you will open the hive, but do it very quickly, and then replace the insulation. At the end of winter, the cluster will be at the top; so you will have a quick answer as to whether the hive has survived or not.".
April - May
When you start to see pale brown streaks on the snow, or on your white car, it's a sign that your bees are busy performing their cleansing flights. The good weather finally allows them to go outside and empty their intestines. This is a sign that the maples, alders, and willows may be producing their first pollen and that the queen is gradually increasing her egg-laying. It is common practice for beekeepers to use a protein paste, the famous "« Ultra Bee Pro wafers »"At this stage, it's important to boost the colony, which is sometimes weak after winter. This is usually very helpful in increasing the hive population, because the presence of protein or pollen signals to the queen that she can lay eggs since the larvae will be well-fed during their development.".
At spring, It is not mandatory to feed the colonies, but it is usually given 1 or 2 liters, or more if the weather is rainy and it is difficult for the bees to access natural resources. In the case of spring, the syrup will be even lighter, that is to say 1 kg of sugar per 1 liter of water, to gently stimulate the colony and give a subtle impression of a honey flow. Boardman wooden inlet feeder Or plastic is used with a Mason jar which will contain the sugar solution. It's interesting to see if the bees consume it and how quickly. Be careful not to give them the syrup if the temperature is too cold. It's said that below 8°C, bees don't eat significantly. If only the nights are cold, you can insulate the Mason jar to prevent the syrup from cooling down or simply remove it for the night.
September
As mentioned above, sugar syrup is the food we will be giving from the beginning to mid-September. We recommend calculating 20 liters per colony in a Miller feeder«, It doesn't matter if the hive is on one or two brood supers. Gradually increase the amount of syrup given to the bees by 6-7 liters each week, as soon as the honey supers are removed. It's essential that the bees can consume and store the syrup before it gets too cold. For instructions on how to use the syrup... Miller feeder, Please refer to the product sheet.
Extras
The purpose of the supplements is to optimize the healthy development of colonies by providing them with prebiotics (to improve intestinal function), vitamin and mineral complexes, as well as support using essential oils.
To mix into the autumn syrup, the Nozevit is very supportive, and seaweed mixed with essential oils, such as the "« Hive Alive »or the« Long live Abeille!«" are also excellent products that have proven themselves.
In the spring, the Honey Bee Healthy will stimulate the queen's egg-laying; citronella essential oil has multiple benefits for the colony.
The importance of screening
Did you know that the leading cause of winter losses is varroa mites? Managing varroa is the lifeblood of beekeeping. Unfortunately, this parasite has spread worldwide, and we are now all dealing with it. The secret to maximizing a colony's chances of surviving the seasons lies in your varroa management. And your first weapon is called monitoring.
Tools for screening
STICKY CARDBOARD
Have you chosen a wire mesh tray with a drawer? Excellent, because you can easily use the sticky card method for monitoring varroa mites. This method isn't the most scientific, but it's good enough to recommend. The technique involves leaving the card on the tray's drawer for 72 hours and then counting the natural fall of the varroa mites. Refer to the product information sheet for more details on how to use it.
Sticky Detection Board
SAMPLING
This is the most scientific method for assessing the infestation rate because it is precise. We recommend using this technique 2 to 3 times during the season, supplementing it with sticky traps for the remaining months. It involves collecting 200 bees from a frame of brood, ideally uncapped, making sure the queen is not present. The bees are then stirred in alcohol or windshield washer fluid. The result is determined by the number of varroa mites found in the liquid.
Sticky Detection Board
TREATMENTS, THE MOST ESSENTIAL
Detection is just the beginning! The colony must then be treated effectively. Above all, be aware that the Varroa mite infestation threshold must be higher than 2% to 3% before applying any treatment.
Don't fall into the trap of thinking your hive is varroa-free. There may not be many, but the infestation is exponential and can decimate a colony in a matter of weeks. See this for more information. short explanatory video about varroa mites.
The colony normally needs to be treated 4 times a year; ;
-
- at the start of the season to begin the season on the right foot
- in July to avoid a fatal infestation in the fall
- at the beginning of September, an extremely rigorous treatment
- We finalize the treatment in November with oxalic acid, to ensure that the bees do not spend the winter stressed by these parasites.
Several resources are available to help you choose the right treatment. Ask us for help if needed so we can guide you to the appropriate information.
HONEY HARVEST
You will work closely with the colony, which expands impressively until mid-to-late July. The season is neither too rainy nor too dry… the foragers are working hard to gather as many provisions as possible. It's important to ensure adequate space is provided in time to prevent swarming and overcrowding of the honey stores in the brood chamber(s). We follow the 80% rule; the honey super is placed below the brood chamber, which is filled to 80%.
Here in Quebec, a beehive can accumulate an average of 100 lbs of honey in a season, but many factors can affect production:
- weather conditions that affect the availability of nectar in flowers
- the ease with which bees can access floral resources
- the abundance of nectar depending on the types of flowers
- Does the colony need to build new frameworks?
- the queen's genetics
- The colony swarmed during the summer, or there was a natural queen change.
- etc…
The most important thing is the health of the colony, and then you can take advantage of any surplus resources. Generally, honey is ready to be harvested when it's fully capped (a wax film covers each cell). This means its moisture content is optimal, but it's not an exact science because very humid summers can cause problems.
To remove honey from the hive, the traditional method uses a bee brush to remove the bees from each frame. However, there is now a bee escape that greatly facilitates honey harvesting and reduces stress on the colony. Refer to the product information sheet for more details on its use.
EXTRACTION
EXTRACTION
First and foremost, ensure that the honey has a moisture content below 181 TP3T. Above this level, the honey risks fermenting within the next few months. Measure the moisture content with a refractometer, and if it is too humid, use a chamber with good air circulation, heat, and a dehumidifier. Retest after a few days to obtain a moisture content as close as possible to 17.21 TP3T.
The honey is finally ready… The first step is to remove the capping, that is, the thin layer of wax that covers each cell. This process is called "uncapping." An uncapping fork will be very useful for this, and to speed things up, you can use an uncapping knife, but it's not essential. The important thing is to keep the honeycomb structures on either side of the foundation in the best possible condition. These frames will be your bounty for the next season. The bees will save a lot of energy because they won't have to rebuild and can quickly focus on harvesting honey.
Once the frame has been uncapped, it will need to be placed in an extractor, manual or motorized, and the frames will need to be rotated for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the amount of honey contained and its moisture content.
Collect the honey, while the extractor is running, in a 5-gallon bucket placed under the valve, fitted with a filtration system. It is much easier to filter the honey directly as it comes out of the extractor because it is still warm.
POTTING
Your honey has been resting peacefully in the buckets for a few days… now it's time to do it justice and jar it. Anything is possible here, but we recommend using the honey jars with "Twist-Off" capsules«, Rather than a simple Mason jar, which will be difficult to reopen over time, opt for a more decorative container. Take the opportunity to embellish your jar with a label that highlights your product. Are you selling from home or at an outdoor kiosk? You can do as you please, but if your product is sold on a grocery store shelf, the regulations change. Take the time to thoroughly research them. MAPAQ.
WINTERING
The colony was well cared for during the season and you fed them sufficiently in the fall; you can already be proud that you gave them every chance to survive the winter. As the cold weather sets in, you will need to install protection for the cold season. There's no need to bundle them up excessively; bees don't die from the cold. However, too much wind and excess humidity can be fatal. The hive insulation must not create excessive condensation, so be careful with over-insulating, and good air circulation is essential.
When: When temperatures remain around 0°C. Do it before the first snowfall so that equipment handling is easier.
Comment: You can opt for insulation Abeille Space; This is a very resistant canvas where the insulation is created by the air circulating between the outer walls of the hive and the canvas. For a more economical version, a styrofoam installed between the attic and the roof, as well as a double-bubble "thermofoil" insulation« will do the job.
One very important detail: your input reducer The entrance reducer should be installed at the smallest possible entrance from the start of feeding (mid-September). During the fall, the risk of robbing is high, and mice seek to take advantage of the hive's warmth, so the small entrance is left open to reduce the space the guard bees need to protect. When the cold weather is here to stay, be sure to remove the entrance reducer. Why? While the cluster is maintaining its warmth, 35% of the colony will gradually die. The living bees try to remove the "dead bodies" from the hive, but with the entrance reducer in place, they simply push the corpses towards the hole, blocking the entrance and causing moisture to accumulate in the hive. The entrance must be cleared, even if your instinct tells you otherwise. Store your entrance reducer until the end of winter.
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